MOMU ANTWERP PRESENTS
AN INTERACTIVE LEARNING EXPERIENCE

Decoding W.A.L.T.

Decoding
W.A.L.T.

The Workings and Warnings
of Walter Van Beirendonck

Portrait of Walter Van Beirendonck
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Walter Van Beirendonck
Log
Personal
Date
2157-02-04 19:35:26

The archive arrives incomplete.

Files repeat. Dates misalign. Images load halfway and freeze.

The system behaves as if it has been damaged by time.

One name persists across corrupted folders and broken metadata:

Walter Van Beirendonck

Designer.
Educator.
Provocateur.

In this archive, his work appears flagged for a different reason.

The garments are logged as responses to crisis conditions.

The notes classify them as adaptive tools.

This is not a record assembled after the fact; rather, it reads like material prepared in advance.

Puk Puk sticker

Vulnerability as a Design Problem

The first signal cluster centers on the mid-1990s.

During this period, Walter produced latex masks and second-skin garments that sealed the body.

This is a direct confrontation of risks.

These garments acknowledged physical intimacy, infection, and responsibility at a time when public discourse avoided them.

The context points, unmistakable and unabashed, to the AIDS crisis.

"With the AIDS epidemic, for example, I felt very strongly about the safe-sex message in my collection."

Walter Van Beirendonck

Paradise Pleasure Productions

Circa 1995-1996

The masks were explicit, refusing euphemism. They insisted that protection was an act of necessary care.

Mirror Mirror, Sleeping Beauty from FW 1999

Walter spoke openly about this responsibility, both personal and collective. Protecting oneself also meant protecting others. The body was treated as something interconnected rather than isolated.

When danger becomes abstract or invisible, his work makes it tangible.

The logic behind his work remains consistent.


Decades later, similar forms return in his work.

  • Survival silhouettes.
  • Technical layers.
  • Clothing designed for unstable environments.

When danger becomes abstract or invisible, his work makes it tangible.

Use the [CIRCULAR_SCANNER] to reveal the hidden word.

Drag the device over all the images. Only ONE (1) contains the word.

Item:
CIRCULAR_SCANNER
Status:
ACTIVE
Hidden Image 1
Hidden Image 2

AWAKE

Hidden Image 3
A scanner to reveal hidden messages

KEY:

_ _ _ _ _

Visibility, Control, and Freedom

The second signal intensifies in the early 2000s.

Covered faces dominate the data set.

Masks distort expression. Identity becomes unstable.

After 9/11, visibility increasingly meant vulnerability. Surveillance expanded, while fear was amplified and weaponized by the powers that be.

Walter responded by undermining the reliability of the face itself.

The masks he included in this period often function as interference, resisting categorization and denying easy access.

Walter Van Beirendonck Masks

Circa 2003-2008

These masks denote a time fraught with tension, when surveillance was pervasive and personal freedom was under threat.

"Of course, the idea that you can be anybody you want behind the mask is very appealing; it gives you perfect freedom."

Walter Van Beirendonck

Walter spoke about freedom in this context. He described it as the ability to exist without constant legibility.

When identity is fixed and monitored, autonomy erodes.

Around this time, he stepped away from his own label, W.&L.T., choosing independence over institutional and financial stability.

The archive marks this as a decisive shift.

From this point on, his work becomes even more openly confrontational. Text appears directly on garments, their messages shunning subtlety.

When identity is fixed and monitored, autonomy erodes.

There are FIVE (5) different collections represented by these images.

Drag all the matching pairs to each other. Each collection unlocks one letter of the [KEY].

Eerie yet soothing outfit. Collection
Mr. Spellbound
Creative W:AR
REBEL REBEL
Statements on a garment
A model on a scooter
I hate copycats W:AR
Mirror
Saying it loud
Bold, vibrant lines and tailogring

KEY:

_ _ _ _ _

Saying It Loud

Early 2000s

When textures and images aren't loud enough, words remain the best communication tool.

These slogans operate as disruptions.
They interrupt passivity and demand engagement.

Disturbance becomes a way to activate imagination, rather than suppress it.

Repair After Exposure

The final signal changes pace.

The visual language softens to playful optimism.

Massive hands appear, symbolizing healing.
Eyes grow larger, as if in wonder.
Expansive, ever-present colors and motifs turn riotous with glee.

This phase introduces figures that resemble animals, aliens, and hybrids. They are curious rather than threatening. Their exaggerated features suggest openness rather than defense.

Future Healing

Circa 2020s

Exaggerated cartoonish features and playful prints abound, in optimistic defiance of current issues.

Walter often speaks about children and their capacity to imagine. He describes their lack of fear toward difference and their ability to envision futures without inherited limitations.

In collections such as Healing Hands and later works featuring starry eyes and friendly alien forms, care becomes central. These designs focus on connection, empathy, and recovery.

The archive frames this as a response to prolonged crisis.

After survival and resistance, the question of how to rebuild is inevitable.

Hope appears here as an active stance.

Dreaming becomes a form of responsibility.

“I want future generations to know that no boundaries can stop creation. Only fear can.”

Walter Van Beirendonck

Walter's writings in this period include poems and pastoral imagery. Sunflowers recur. The tone remains urgent, but it opens toward possibility.

An excerpt of his musings from one of his collections around late 2020s describes this best.

Alien & Sunflowers deep blue coat from NEW FW25/26 Walter at SCARECROW FW26/27

Instead of letting extreme emotions fuel me,
And pull me in all kinds of directions
This time I took a much more contemplative approach to form a new collection.

Emphasis on NEW.

Looking with big eyes at the world as I love to do
I came to the realisation
That even with the best of intentions,
The most positive of actions
Can have restrictive consequences.

In my thoughtful state I dreamt of running through sunflower fields with my Alien Friends.

New life among us, here to help make sense of it all!

They became an extra set of EYES, unearthing new possibilities.

Transforming dreams from mind mirages to stand-alone pieces can be a costly journey.
But I consider it my duty to keep pushing what is possible in fashion.

I want future generations to know that no boundaries can stop creation.
Only fear can.

XXX
WALTER

Disturbance becomes a way to activate imagination, rather than suppress it.

Walter Van Beirendonck communicates many things through his designs. His relentless optimism for the future comes through his collections, particularly through repeating fun elements.

Experience it yourself! Design your own Walter cap.

Item:
CAP_CUSTOMIZER
Status:
ACTIVE

Choose Your Cap

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Black Cap
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W Logo
Walt Doll
Lightning Left
Lightning Right
W Lightning
Wings
Red Peace Sign
Orange Peace Sign
Crown W
We Come In Peace
Log
Transmission
Date
2157-02-05 08:17:43

The files loop.

Dates misalign.

Images return with different names.

And still, one signal stays readable:

protection,
becoming autonomy,
becoming care.

These themes move across decades and crises. They persist because the conditions that produced them persist.

The archive stabilizes for a moment...

Just long enough to transfer:

You are the next carrier.

Dress with awareness.
Design with responsibility.
Imagine beyond the moment you are in.

Walter Van Beirendonck